Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Cedar Hill - The Frederick Douglass Home


When most visitors and residents of DC think of the Anacostia neighborhood, the first thing that comes to mind is a high crime rate, liquor stores, wig shops, and check cashing stores, and while much of that is true, there are sites worth seeking out. I had always wanted to visit the home of Frederick Douglass, who is one my personal heroes, but didn't get a chance to visit until I came upon while returning from an ill fated birding search in Ft. Dupont Park (another story).

Frederick Douglass was born around 1818 and lived until 1895 and had many noteworthy accomplishments - he was an American abolitionist, women's suffragist, editor, orator, author, statesman, minister and reformer. Having escaped from slavery, he made strong contributions to the abolitionist movement, and achieved a public career that led to his being called "The Sage of Anacostia" and "The Lion of Anacostia". I knew his home would be interesting but the site is a marvel of one man's accomplishments.

The home has a pleasing scale and architectural style, that while Victorian, is not too "fussied" up with the elaborate detailing we associate with that era. Perhaps most importantly, the home contains so many of his personal effects, from furniture and art to books and bassinets, it seemed he might stroll out of his study at any moment.

I'm always searching out good views and the one from his grounds provided one of the best panoramas in Washington D.C. The site is located on a large hill, so I could see the Washington Monument, the Pentagon, and the Capital Building. Although much has changed since Douglass’ day, some landmarks would have been familiar to him including the dome of the U.S. Capitol, Library of Congress and the newly completed Washington Monument.

Douglass is one of the most prominent figures in African American and United States history. I admire him so much because he was a firm believer in the equality of all people, whether black, female, Native American, or recent immigrant. He was fond of saying, "I would unite with anybody to do right and with nobody to do wrong."

The Frederick Douglass NHS  Visitor Center is located at:
1411 W Street SE, Washington DC 20020 

Public Transportation:

By Metro

Get off at the Anacostia stop on the Green Line and take the B2 bus in the direction of Mt. Ranier. There is a bus stop directly in front of the Douglass home at the corner of 14th and W streets.  Continue along the sidewalk in the direction the bus is traveling until you reach the visitor center (15th and W Streets SE).

Visit Metro's website for more information.

Getting here by car:

From I-495/95 Beltway

Take Exit 3 north onto Indian Head highway (MD 210), which becomes South Capitol Street. Bear right onto  Martin Luther King Jr. Avenue. Turn right on W Street for four blocks. The visitor center parking lot will be on your right. 

From the National Mall

Travel South on 9th Street to I-395 north. Exit onto I-295 south and cross the 11th Street Bridge. Exit onto Martin Luther King Jr. Avenue. Turn left on W Street for four blocks. The visitor center parking lot will be on your right. 

From I-295 South

Take exit 3B for Howard Road and turn left onto Howard Road. Turn left onto Martin Luther King Jr. Avenue.  Turn right onto W street, the site will be 4 blocks down on the right. 

If you have a group of 11 or more, you will not be able to see the house without a reservation. 

Sunday, June 27, 2010

An Overlooked Museum - US Naval Museum - Adjacent to Nationals Ballpark

I would never have thought to visit this museum because I wasn't aware it even existed! I'm hoping this article will inspire visitors and residents alike to visit a repository of relics and history that rivals the Air and Space Museum just a few miles away - and you won't have to deal with hordes of school kids that seem to ricochet off one another like marbles and yell at decibel levels not yet measured by science!

Front The Navy Museum Building

The US Navy Museum is on a still working base and that might be part of the reason more people don't visit. The idea of pulling up and going through a check point might deter some but those people will be missing out on an array of historical artifacts, displays and interactive exhibits that adults and children (OK, boys - my daughter was not especially thrilled - Barbi was never in the Navy) will love. Once you arrive (see below for logistical info.) in front of the of the U.S. Navy Museum, overlooking the Anacostia River you'll first want to board and tour the decommissioned destroyer Barry (DD-933), which sits Willard Park.

Willard Park is home to an array of naval artifacts from different eras. The majority are naval ordnance captured by the U.S. Navy. Willard Park also provides visitors and employees with a small picnic area. Interesting artifacts in Willard Park include: Civil War 100 pounder cannon from CSS Atlanta captured by the U.S. monitor Weehawken, 6 in. 30 calibre deck gun from U.S. battleship Maine sunk in Havana Harbor 15 February 1898, the 36,000 lb. propeller from battleship USS South Dakota, a 14-inch naval railway gun - one of only eight built at the Washington Navy Yard for use in Europe in World War and a fascinating bathysphere from the Alvin undersea exploration vehicle.

The inside the of museum traces US naval history from the war of independence until the present day. My favorite part was sitting in the AA guns which swivel around and move up and down allowing the Walter Mitty in all of us to imagine they're single handedly taking on the Japanese flying suicide bomb - the festively colored Yokosuka MXY-7 Ohka("cherry blossom"), a specially built rocket-powered kamikaze aircraft which dangles from the ceiling. The range of artifacts and "war trophies" is impressive, as are the displays. The last time I went I had the pleasure to meet and chat with a group of Pearl Harbor survivors who were paying tribute to their comrades and reminiscing.

The National Museum of the U.S. Navy was established in 1961 and opened to the public in 1963. As one of 14 Navy museums throughout the country, it is the only one that presents an overview of U.S. naval history. Permanent and temporary exhibitions commemorate the Navy's wartime heroes and battles as well as its peacetime contributions in exploration, diplomacy, space flight, navigation and humanitarian service.

Hey look (pic below), we've been fighting in the Middle East, well North Africa, since the Nation's founding - the Pasha of Tripoli declared war on the United States in 1801, and in 1815 President James Madison asked Congress to declare war on Algeria. American merchant ships were in great danger at this time because there was no national navy to protect them abroad. These "pirates" from North Africa were enslaving our sailors and merchants until the founding father's had enough and went over to "get some". Thus the Marine verse about the Shores of Tripoli...


Visiting the National Museum of the United States Navy >View


The National Museum of the United States Navy is open to the public free of charge and is located on the historic Washington Navy Yard in southeast Washington, D.C. The Museum is open Monday through Friday from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm and from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm on weekends and holidays. The Museum is open every day except Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day.

Individuals above the age of 16 are required to have a valid government-issued ID card, such as a driver’s license, State ID, passport, or Common Access Card (CAC). Guests accompanied by children under the age of 16 will be responsible for those children. Large handbags and backpacks may be searched by Security.

Personal vehicles are permitted on weekends ONLY. Vehicle registration and proof of insurance or rental agreement are required. During the week, parking is available for a fee in the lot adjacent to the Navy Yard at the intersection of 6th and M St SE.

Entrance Gates >View


  • 6th St SE and M St SE
    24/7 gate. Visitors should park in the pay lot on M St. across from the gate on weekdays as vehicular traffic is not allowed to the Museum. Visitors may drive in through the 6th and M St. gate on weekends. This gate is also the entrance for buses arriving on weekends.
  • 9th St SE and M St SE
    Military and DoD employees only, Monday-Friday
  • 11th St SE and O St SE (1022 O St SE)
    Bus Entrance, Monday-Friday
  • Via Metro (Subway) Metro System Map

    The U.S. Navy Museum is accessible by both the Navy Yard (green) and Eastern Market (blue and orange) metro stations.

    • Eastern Market Metro Station (Orange/Blue Line)
      Exit the metro station and walk south on 8th St SE for 0.5 miles. Turn right onto M St SE and continue for two more blocks. The museum visitor access gate is located at the intersection of 6th St SE and M St SE.
    • Navy Yard Metro Station (Green Line)
      Exit the metro station via New Jersey Ave and walk east on M St until you come to 6th St SE. The museum visitor access gate is located at the intersection of 6th St SE and M St SE.

  • Thursday, June 24, 2010

    Oxon Hill Farm

    Are you visiting Washington for the first time and want to escape the herds of school kids, scuttling bureaucrats and the heat and dust of the National Mall? Even long time residents have probably missed this little gem of a National Park due to it's odd location in the midst of pretzel like highway interchanges, off ramps and a somewhat difficult to find single access road, but the payoff is worth the effort.

    Oxon Hill Farm is part of the land that makes up Oxon Cove Park - a farm and plantation that has witnessed a great deal of history but remained unchanged and unspoiled because of it's usefulness as a farm during the middle part of the 20th Century when the patients of St. Elizabeth's Hospital used it as a way to provide food for the hospital and working therapy for the patients.

    The first inhabitants, the Debutts family bought the property and began the Welby Plantation which grew tobacco and other produce for the export market. The Debutts family were witness to the British siege of Washington during the War of 1812 and the modern day visitor is afforded the same view they had during the 18th and early 19th Century. The Farm overlooks the Potomac River not far from the mouth of the Anacostia and sits directly across from Alexandria Va. The view is one of the best panoramas of Washington you can get and it's worth the visit alone.

    After St. Elizabeth's discontinued using the farm the property was entrusted to the National Park Service to protect this heritage site which few people visit. This is a site that's enjoyable for all ages as the original barns and outbuildings and manor house remain intact. Children will delight in feeding time for the animals - watch the pigs scramble over each other as they gobble their lunches, see grazing sheep and an array of farm birds among other animals. While those who enjoy quiet in the midst of urban hustle will enjoy hiking and strolling the uncrowded grounds.

    The visitor center has a gift shop and many "hands on" activities for kids as well as friendly rangers who have the time to engage with visitors and answer any all questions you might have. The park is very close to the new National Harbor Center (about a mile) and a combined visit would be recommended.


    barnyard area scene

    Oxon Cove Park, including Oxon Hill Farm, the Hiker/Biker Trail, and the Woodlot Trail are open daily from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., except January 1, Thanksgiving Day, and December 25.

    Admissions and activities are free.


    From Washington, D.C.:

    Take I-295 south toward Maryland. Follow I-295 until it ends at I-495/I-95 and MD-210 Indian Head Highway. Take the exit for MD-210 Indian Head Highway; take the first ramp towards 210-Indian Head Highway north towards Forest Heights. At the second stop light make a right onto MD-414 Oxon Hill Road east. At the next light make a left onto Bald Eagle Road. Follow this road into our parking lot.